FOOD, THE SOUL OF FAMILY REUNIONS

By Donna Pierce

Q: What Parts of Black American cooking can be traced back to Africa and which ones developed in the diaspora.

A.  The culinary exchange between West African and North and South America turns out to have several interesting twists and developments. For one thing, it’s a two way exchange.
By the time of the 15th century slave trade, a variety of New World ingredients (tomatoes, hot peppers, corn and ground nuts or peanuts) had already crossed the ocean and become incorporated into West African cuisine.
North and South America were introduced to indigenous West African foods such as benne (sesame seeds) and watermelon during the slave trade. The word gumbo, which we have come to know as a Creole soup/stew…is derived from a West African word for okra.

Q.  Is Black American cooking homogeneous, or are there regional differences?

No, of course there is no homogeneous Black American cooking any more than we share homogeneous physical characteristics, religions or personality traits.
It’s also important to know that the description “soul food” didn’t come into play until the late 1960’s early 1970’s when “soul music” “soul brother and sister” also became part of our lexicon.
The truth is Black Americans have participated in the creation and evolution of many different cuisines and recipe variations.
Still, I like to use the term “soul food” because it’s a description of a style of food we all understand.  I came to this conclusion in the late 1990‘s when a Gourmet Cover arrived in the mail with Soul Food decorating the cover in bright letters. The inside story had nothing to do with macaroni and cheese or banana pudding or chitterlings. Instead, I remember a story and recipes about Asian food.
This made me realize that each time someone makes a good case for changing our “label” we lose some of the power associated with a unity of description.
When I opened the magazine and found an array of ethnic Asian dishes labeled as “soul food” I became determined to work to keep that brand for ourselves.  The movie and television show that came along with the same name helped the cause.
So, the short answer is that there is no homogenous Black cooking. But “soul food” comes close to something we may all have in common as reminders of the survival food our ancestors ate and flavored and made their own to stay alive and to make it possible for us to be here today.

We’re talking about peach cobbler, macaroni and cheese, chitterlings, greens, cornbread, biscuits and other dishes we may have in common as historic survival food.

Regional differences often take place because of  an area’s growing season and the types of plants and ingredients available. My mother came from a family with a Creole recipe background and often spoke about seafood being plentiful and cheap in Mobile, where she and my father came from 5 generations of Gulf Coast families. Meat was a rarity at her house.  My father’s family had a fig tree and guava tree in their yard; he wasn’t introduced to apple pie until he moved to Missouri.

Q. There are two concurrent beliefs about “soul food.” One is that it’s good, but not good for you. The other is that it was been prepared in healthy ways, but loses out in the flavor department. What’s your take on this?

A. From Italian tiramisu, Mexican tamales, Jewish schmaltz and German strudels, many ethnic dishes and ingredients may not be what one wants to consume on a daily basis. But like all traditional ethnic cuisine, they play an important role in our holiday and special-occasion traditions. That’s why I feel it’s so important for young families to reserve Black American recipes and cooking traditions.
Because we’re concerned about healthy eating on a daily basis as well as supporting our First Lady’s campaign against childhood obesity, I think the notion of delicious, healthy versions of soul food offers one of the most exciting sections on our website.

For those who haven’t been introduced to healthy and delicious soul food, please link to the “Alter-Ego” recipe developed on BlackAmericaCooks.com for a delicious roasted blend featuring eggplant, turnip greens and okra.

Q. I have always been fascinated by the way recipes and food traditions get circulated  and wonder how certain foods came to be considered "favorites" or staples.

The story of the great migration offers an interesting example of how food traveled from one region to another.  I have an interview with a wonderful lady (Mrs. Augie Lehmann) on the website who describes how the southern menu never changed after her family came north seeking a better life.

As with most food traditions, there are wide varieties of regional menu and recipe differences. Nashville’s famous meat-and-three (diner and small cafe meals served with one meat selection accompanied by three side dishes such as greens, macaroni and cheese and creamed corn) offer an example of everyday regional menu distinctions that some say originated in the Nashville area. Special occasion menus, identifiable by region, include the sauerkraut which always accompanies holiday turkey in some parts of Maryland. In another region, fresh oyster dressing was mandatory at my grandmother’s house.
Barbecue offers a good example of regional differences based on both local flavor choices, ingredients and available livestock. Today, included among the geographic barbecue styles we celebrate and appreciate are the mustard and vinegar-based Southeastern sauces over pork shoulders; Memphis-style ribs seasoned with dry rub; and Texas-style beef brisket and hot links. My favorite sweeter, tomato-based Kansas City brisket and ribs, offers another hybrid regional flavor.

Q.    What are the most popular foods served at Black family reunions ?

Most of us know families from coast to coast for whom preparation for the reunion menu begins by lighting the grill. Breaking bread together around family reunion tables offers the chance for family members to share memories and traditions while sampling menus passed down from from one generation to the next.
Regional Barbecue, Potato Salad, Deviled Eggs, Macaroni and Cheese and Cobblers top the popular list of homemade menu.

Gumbo plays an important role in our family’s reunion recipe repertoire.
Friends from Baltimore wouldn’t dream of gathering the family without a  crab boil.  

Q. Will you share recipes for some of these dishes?

A. I’m happy to share some of my family recipes and invite your viewers to visit our website BlackAmericaCooks.com for more.

Angel Biscuits Dough can be refrigerated in resealable food storage bag or covered bowl until ready to use. Let come to room temperature before rolling dough and cutting out biscuits.
1 package (1/4 ounce) active dry yeast
2 tablespoons very warm water
5 cups sifted flour 2 tablespoons sugar
1 tablespoon baking powder
1 teaspoon each: baking soda, salt
1 cup vegetable shortening
2 cups buttermilk 1/2 stick (1/4 cup) melted butter
Dissolve yeast in warm water in a small bowl; set aside. Sift flour, sugar, baking powder, baking soda and salt into a large bowl; cut in shortening with a pastry cutter or your hands. Add buttermilk and yeast mixture. Stir until thoroughly moistened.

Transfer dough to a floured board; sprinkle with flour if needed. Knead 2 minutes. Roll out or pat dough to 1/2-inch thickness; use a 2-inch biscuit cutter to cut out biscuits. Transfer to an ungreased baking pan. Let rise 45 minutes.

Heat oven to 400 degrees. Brush biscuits with melted butter. Bake until lightly browned, about 14 minutes. Makes about 30 to 36 biscuits.

xxx

Mama Williams Deviled Eggs
12 hard-cooked eggs, peeled
1/4 cup mayonnaise, more to desired consistency
1 tablespoon softened butter
2 teaspoons sherry vinegar
1 teaspoon each: prepared horseradish, mustard powder
1/2 teaspoon each: salt, sugar (optional)
Paprika
Halve eggs lengthwise. Transfer whites to a platter; transfer yolks to a small bowl. Press yolks through a ricer; set aside. Combine mayonnaise, vinegar, horseradish, mustard powder and salt in a small bowl Taste, add sugar if needed. Generously sprinkle paprika over the eggs. Makes 24 pieces.

xxx

Carolyn’s Once-A-Year Macaroni and Cheese
For those of us constantly watching our diet, one or two bites will suffice for this easy-to-prepare “old-school” soul food recipe.
1 box (16 ounces) elbow macaroni
4 eggs
4 cups milk
2 teaspoons each: salt, freshly ground pepper
4 cups of shredded Mexican- blend cheese
1 1/2 cups shredded sharp Cheddar cheese
Heat oven to 350 degrees. Cook macaroni to al dente, according to package instructions; drain. Set aside.
Whisk together eggs, milk, salt and pepper in a medium bowl. In very large bowl, combine macaroni and Mexican cheese blend, until evenly distributed.  Stir in milk mixture until well combined.
Transfer mixture to a buttered 9-by-13-inch baking dish.  Top evenly with Cheddar cheese, lightly pushing the cheese down into the macaroni mixture to moisten. Bake until cheese melts and sides and top begin to lightly brown, about 50 minutes.

Donna Pierce Bio:
Donna Pierce is a national award-winning food and travel journalist and former Assistant Food Editor and Test Kitchen Director for the Chicago Tribune. She grew up with deep roots in Mobile, Alabama, where her family lived for five generations before her parents moved to Missouri.

Donna lived in San Francisco and Los Angeles before a return to Missouri where she was an adjunct instructor for the University of Missouri Journalism School.
She has traveled to Africa, Europe, and the Caribbean exploring the roots of African American culinary traditions. She is a member of the National Association of Black Journalists, the James Beard Foundation, the Association of Food Journalists and Les Dames d’Escoffier.
© 2010 Donna Pierce
Rights granted for AABoomers for use on AABoomer.com web only in 2010. Any other use requires permission.